Alan's Blog
Day 6 - Tucson - San Carlos
Saturday, 29 December 2007
I had a frustrating start to the day. I hit the snooze button becuase I'm on holiday and not holding anyone up but myself... that caused me to be running MUCH later than I would have liked, but alas, the show must go on.
I had breakfast at IHOP at around 9am, and decided to have a major overhaul already the night before of my packing - which worked out rather well, apart from the fact that I was still to heavy and I knew it, combined it taking an hour to still finish in the morning before I could head off. At 10am, I set me eyes on an 11am take off and would not give myself anymore time than that. By 11:30 I was off.... it was hot all geared up with a riding jacket on, backpack etc.
I decided to bear the pain and fill up the bike with some good quality, 91 octane Shell in Tucson so I wouldn't I have to stop again till I reached my destination. I usually do this at night the day before, but I was too busy repacking everything until I realised it was almost midnight! I tried the new throttle rest, which really bothered me. I've heard good things about these devices but I think they're dangerous and uncomfortable.
It was really distracting to not have absolute free movement of my throttle and brake hand, which on a motorcycle is just about the only control apart from the steering you cannot go without. I stopped in town after less than 2km and stuck it in my tank bag... thinking, this could be a nice gift to someone that wants to try it out.
The ride was uneventful, heading straight for the border. I managed not to have my passport stamped heading out of Mexico and my Visa waiver got me by the US with a quick look and no formalities either, so today I was shooting for green lights all the way!
I had my tourist card, bike temporary importation and insurance already done, so if I got through, it would be as if I never even left! Mexican border, Nogales, stopped behind the Yellow Line... holding my breath. A short pause, longer than the previous green lights I received... and nothing. Its not going green! Why!
By this time it's blisteringly hot in the desert fully suited up in Motorcycling gear and I'm really not in the mood to stop, talk to people that don't understand, sign language, passports, waiting you get the picture. Suddenly, the Mexican border guard sort of half heartedly shows me to come forward... and I assume ignore the red light... fine, I can do that.
So I drive slowly towards him and he keeps showing to move on even as I get close to him.. So I decide to ASUME that he means really go, as in, you're free to enter get the hell out of here... and I do. I look back one last time and he's not waving at me to stop so I just keep going and I'm through!
Nogales is dirty, busy, hot and there's a million and one things going on at any one time around you. I'm always concerned about places like these, and almost every border town into Mexico has a similar feeling. This is where the bus that runs the red light takes you out, this is where the 4yr old runs out in front of you at the last minute, where you pick up stray nails and bolts in your tires, hassled by drunk locals on the sidewalk while you wait at the traffic light.
You draw alot of attention, they can see you are riding far, you are not local and you're loaded with loot! I finally duck and weave my way through Nogales. I get a huge scare with a pretty tatty looking guy walking straight up to me to pat me on the back while I'm waiting for traffic! Thanks alot man! The drive out of Nogales is great, it's excellent GS road territory with lots of potholes and average surfaces, twisty bits and realtively interesting scenery.
The rest of it was basically bum on seat time, enjoy the little Pueblos along the way and interesting things you see mostly in the small towns, through Santa Ana, Hermosillo and into Guaymas. Guaymas at night was a nightmare with traffic and I just kept going and going deeper into the city hoping to find something better, more civilised around the corner until I got to the docks, kept driving for another 2 mins and realised things had just gone from slum, to extreme slum.
Drunk locals in pickup trucks with their buddys on the back doing burnouts, broken down buildings and shacks alongside the road. I headed back to a fuel station... my usual safe haven in unknown large towns. Guaymas was so dodgy looking at night that I actually only stopped at about the 10th Pemex on the outskirts of town on the highway to fill up. It was all tarred and had a little shop next to it too which looked decent.
In Mexico you can stop and someone will fill up for you. It's a great deal, and it's done on the understanding... I believe that there is a small tip at the end of it too. I never let people fill up my bike, but gave the nice girls WANTING to help me a 20 peso tip anyway, and they enthusiastically tell me about (sign language, broken spanish and english mixed together from me + map) San Carlos.
The key word being Buenos and a smile when I point to San Carlos. San Carlos is a nice, touristy place and a perfect hangout joint till new years I decide. I drove through San Carlos, until I reached a resort like residential area outside of town. I finally ended up outside a fairly nice looking coffee shop / cafe called Evies that was closing, and the Mexican owner Martin guided me to a 450 peso a night stay called Los Jitos, with warm water and everything.
I promptly thanked him, headed off, found the place, dumped my stuff and was back at Evies about 2km down the road within 30 mins where they cooked me an abolsutely excellent meal with some even greater company! Thanks Gonzo, Martin and Angelina.
Those who know what it's like doing a full day in the saddle, know that there's nothing like ending up at a place where you can have a lovely home cooked meal and good company! And to top it off, I even had a nice little Hotel room to stay at for the night.
Summary for the day: Long day, back into Mexico. The bike is running like a dream and did 560km and averaged about 90km per hour, which included stops at the border etc. We were flying... and if I had 6 gears I would have averaged 100km/h!
The temperature is much warmer down in Mexico, especially on the coast. Me and the lady were back with revenge and a score to settle on Mexico!
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