Alan's Blog
Day 33 - Delmonte - Isla
Friday, 25 January 2008
Well, I got about 4-5 hours sleep, and I was up and packed by 7am in the morning. I even had time to brew 2 good cups of coffee, which is a base requirement as far as I was concerned, especially with such miserably low temperatures, no hot shower and feeling as crap as I do!
I really soldiered on, talking to myself, many times thinking I should maybe stay just one more day to get more sleep, feel better. But thinking about the cold night again made me stay on track to depart. I knew I was in for a big day, especially since I was feeling so weak, I didn't want to stop until I reached my final destination! Coupled with that, as the gods would have it, they really wanted to to test my determinatation.
It started raining, as I was climbing on the bike and getting ready to leave Delmonte. It was just a drizzle, but at that point, you can just imagine what came to mind... I said to myself F·$(·("$/ it!, we will go on, even if there are landslides I will go over them, there will be nothing stopping me from getting a warm nights sleep tonight, I've had enough! And that's what I did. It was an an absolutely perilous road in the rain that was seemingly endless!
Javier the manager at Delmonte, the day before had told me that it should take 2-3 hours of driving to Tuxtepec on the moto (which by now, I know that Mexicans in general hopelessly underestimate driving times, well at least to me), so I was in for at least 3 hours in good weather probably, well it took me 5 hours to Tuxtepec (with about 20 mins worth of stops), and 3 hours out of the 5 hours was seriously slow, slipperry mountainous roads, mostly without barriers that made me grow older for sure. 
With roads like these, they really tap you mentally, rather than physically.
From an altitude perspective, you rise to above 3000m above sea level, which is high, but not unbearable. It is cold and it's very slippery, combined with the fact that you're about 65% in the clouds (or at least I was) which makes visibility about 40m! The wind is absolutely howling along some passes from near nothing, which makes it difficult to even stay upright!
Visor Up, and your eyes can't take the blistering wind and cold misty drizzle... it's too painful and you can't see! Visor Down, and you are more comfortable, but your helmet fogs up and you have to keep wiping your visor to see the road. So you use a combination of both for 3 hours! Certainly for the really hairy bits, I raise my visor to see EXACTLY what is going on, regardless of how uncomfortable I am. 
I managed to stay upright all day, and the mission was accomplished by when I hit Vale Nacional and only one more small little hill in front of me! Vale Nacional was completely different to the other side of the range at Oaxaca, it was hot, humid and tropical. The first place I stopped at was a friendly little family run restaurant. I immediately struck up a lengthly conversation with the Lady and her daughter who were very amazed at the fact that I have come from over THOSE mountains! 
Getting to Vale Nacional really made it all worth while for me. The first drink I got was fresh coconut juice, with my coconut to eat out the inside with a spoon! Cool! I was really getting to like this Tropical climate very quickly! Bananas, Mangos you name it, they had it fresh and so fresh that they actually would go round the back and pick it off the tree! 
An hour later, the mum and daughter team noticed I wasn't looking sooo good anymore, and I confirmed to them that I had some stomach problems... which prompted them to try and feed me even more! I felt bad turning down the green tea they offered me, and after that, really started going off in a hurry. All I can think of is that the adrenaline (and no food) from the morning must have been wearing off now, and it was back to my usual sick stomach again. What's worse is that they didn't even want to charge me for anything! It confirms it again, without a doubt that the small towns are where you will meet the friendliest people and also have the most memorable times on your journey!
After looking all the way from Vale Nacional to Tuxtepec for a nice little place to lie down on the grass and throw up and sleep, I finally found a good river, with a lawn outside the first Gas Station I had seen for a long time on the way into Tuxtepec. Suffice to say, the Coconut and everything that was fed to me by those friendly people at Vale Nacional was no longer... but I felt a little bit better. I even got Cell Phone reception for the first time in 3 days... and got 30 messages! Don't you hate that!
Following about 2 hours of lying on the grass, drinking that beautiful drink that some have referred to as Black Magic, I was feeling alot better! While I was lying there feeling very sorry for myself, and feeling the energy being restored into me with every sip of Coke I take... I conjured up wild advertisements of adventure travellers, conquering worlds and always on the last scene, finding the black magic! If they didn't find the black magic, they were doomed! I got back on the horse and she trotted at breakneck speeds to the nearest, best little town with a good bed and a warm shower!
Tuxtepec was a serious dump, especially the areas along the main road, and so was nearly every town on the way to Sayula, until I decided to quickly check out Isla. Upon entering Isla, it wasn't looking good at first, and there were no signs of Hotels on the main road at all (it's not geared for tourists or even passers by in any way), it wasn't looking hopeless however, and thus, I decided to keep looking.
A fellow motorcyclist pulled up next to me and probably could see that I was looking and driving slowly, and after confirming I was looking for a ´Buenos Hotel` (depending on the town you are in, depends on how you ask for a Hotel... sometimes it's muchas economica Hotel, but in towns like these, and in my state, only Buenos will do), took me on a reckless ride through some small streets to reach the Central Hotel in Isla.
This Hotel is like an old 2 Star Hotel and built to last... no carpets anywhere, even in the rooms (which is fine, and probably saves on airconditioning requirements in the rooms), but it's clean and even smells like some serious industrial grade cleaning chemicals throughout the hallways and expecially in the rooms. I managed to convince the lady at the front counter to let me have the key and dump my stuff in the room, while I go get some cash at an ATM. While doing this, I also paid a quick visit to the local Disco Pharmacy (these guys really play some funky, loud tunes all day long) to get some drugs for my stomach.
Summary for the day: First warm showever in days, I have some drugs to aid in the recovery of my stomach bug and it's warm and nearly at sea level in Isla. A perfect town for a bried recovery period!
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