Alan's Blog
Day 14 - El Fuerte - Busceria
Sunday, 06 January 2008
I started the day off with a quick breakfast at the same place I'd become quite accustomed to over the last couple of days. I found it to be quite comfy and clean, combined with the fact that they knew exaclty how / what I liked to eat. Strong Coffee, extra Mushrooms!
I also introduced some Swiss bikers I met that were passing through town to the place, and they started frequenting it too! We had dinner there one night, coupled with me seeing them off on a big ride they were embarking on through the mountains to the Copper Canyon from El Fuerte. After that, I was off with a mass of onloookers, (which I've become quite used to by now) from the Hotel I was staying at in Town.
Yes I am an Alien! Yes I am from overseas! Yes the Back Pack is very heavy! Yes it is dangerous! Yes I am crazy! They just don't get it!
The ride was really just putting my head down and making some distance for a change. My intentions were to speed things up a notch or two, and coupled with the fact that Pablo and Margarita had left on the train to the Copper Canyon, I didn't have to worry about how anyone else felt but ME!
My surroundings were becoming a little too familiar by now, I'd seen desert towns, dusty streets, beautiful colonial architecture and needed a change in scenery, big time! I silently aimed for Tepic, which would be a long day in the saddle, but decided that I would just take things as they come and see how I go! No pressure! The ride to Los Mochis was interesting, and I really enjoyed the greener, more colourful scenery around the coast after all the time I'd spent in the desert or semi arrid regions thus far.
By the time I got to Tepic at night, maybe around 7pm, I decided to push on as I felt good, and the road was proving to be excellent. Tepic as a city looked quite Interesting, but I wanted to find a nice camping spot and knew I'd have to head to the touristy area of Puerto Vallarta to find that. The start of the Mex 200 was allready proving to be great after approximately 50km from Tepic. Twisty, well maintained and excellent scenery along the way!
At times it felt as if I was travelling through a tunnel of forest all the way, even occassionally being forced offline while leaning into a turn by a branch that was hanging into the road. One small branch even caught my bark buster and ripped off the cable ties holding it to the handlebars!
After getting within approximately 30km of Puerto Vallarta, I started looking in earnest for a camping spot. I did huge big excursions off the Mex 200, down to the coast itself where I felt there could be an RV park or campsite of some sorts.
The trouble was that is was at night, which is the worst time to find a suitable site, especially if it's just anywhere alongside the road, coupled with that, it was dense coastal jungle on either side of the road, and the few small clearings I found were little mud holes probably infested with Mosquitos and other critters... and it was going to be a mission setting up the tent in that stuff and cleaning in the morning was going to be even worse!
After almost 2 hours of looking, I decided to head back to the Mex 200 and find something more suitable! I had to admit that I went on a wild goose chase down the wrong path, and decided to cut my losses! Back to the main road, probably 30km down, I found a place, Busceria, that according to my map, had a camp site or RV park of some sorts.
By this time it was late, and after enquiring all over the little town... there was nothing. I spotted a couple of options though... which by this time, I was definitely going to excersise! A nice little childrens playground... and within the first minute of getting there, I found a very steep, and rocky, but perfectly doable entrance onto the beach! I could just imagine the inquisitive kids and the upset parents at finding a dirty, smelly biker squatting in their beautiful play park the next morning!!
I opted for the beach, as I thought, although messy, was not in such plain view as the playground... plus it was an absolutely perfect night. No wind, the stars were out and it was warm. My only concern was that someone would spot me, or hear me and come and hassle me that night. From experience, if you can get out of sight from people at night, you usually have a good, peaceful nights rest. If somebody sees you, depending on who it is, it's often pack up and go time!
A well to do American tourist walking to his villa on the beach at night is something you can judge at the time, and is generally safe. Locals may be very friendly, but you have alot of stuff that's valuable on the bike and keeping everything under lock and key is almost impossible, not to even mention your own safety while sleeping. Sleeping like a guard dog with one eye open is also extremely stressful, and in my opinion not worth the sleep at all!
Anyway, I walked my kit down to the beach, careful to be as quiet as possible, with the bike perfectly lined up for a quick entrance, a blast across the sand approx 300 meters away to my selected spot (lights off of course) with nothing but the moon and stars to guide me! The plan worked a treat, and after savouring two excellent Coronas that I bought outside Tepic, I was satisfied that I was safe and nobody had noticed me!
I promptly settled down, made some dinner! Noodles with mushroom sauce and a can of Tuna, and went to bed! Under the stars!... no tent, just my ground sheet with my sleeping bag and my riding jacket as the pillow. Days just don't get better than this. Long distance, great roads, no problems and after all that sleeping on a beach under the stars!
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