Alan's Blog
Day 10 - Alamos - El Fuerte
Wednesday, 02 January 2008
The day started with my new friends Pablo and Margarita on their BMW R1150GS waking me at 6am, and telling me that they would like to catch the train to the the copper canyon at 10:45 from El Fuerte. We agreed the night before that we'd make our way towards El Fuerte, on the tar road via Navojoa.
Which was definitely further (approx 2 and half times) but offered a very well paved road and predictable arrival times. I groggily agreed, slightly tense about the sudden change of plans, but also quite happy that I was not being held up by them which is usually the case when you travel with more than 1 other person, especially a couple.
What a nice shiny GS! Pablo also wanted to take the back road! GREAT! Now we're talking! We were off at around 7:30am and after dashing through town trying to find the way to this ´back road', we were finally pointed in the general direction by an old couple watering their cactus garden.
We were travelling only with a hand drawn map by the local innkeeper that same morning. He actually came across pretty angry and unhelpful the day before, but this morning as I handed the keys back to him he had already drawn the map up for me. Hmmmm, we must really need it I guess... and I was right.
The road from Alamos to El Fuerte is not a big deal as far as roads go. 103km of dirt, some of which is quite badly rutted, stony, 1 small river crossing over a submerged stony bridge and a few blind ducking corners that surprise you over the crests through the mountains. There were proabably 10 major forks in the road along the way and the hand drawn map was very handy and guided us without much guess and go for probably 80% of the way.
I severely damaged my rear shock to the point of actually stopping at the beautiful old building below with weeds growing inside and taking it off to check the paralever wasn't failing... but luckilly only the Wilbers shock.
About 15km in to the ride, I was the in-progress elected point man, and in the beginning actually thought that Pablo was pushing it a bit faster than I would have liked, or certainly done on my own, with us often riding alongside each other to minimise the dust intake. Nevertheless, I got into the the groove, the bike felt good and my knobbly front tyre did a great job on the gnarly bits slowing and guiding the 350kg GS through the corners at speed up to 90km/h.
(I never look at my speedo while riding dirt... advance planning is absolutely critical, just afterwards at the trackfiles) With me being 1 up, and although being heavily laden for 1 person, my bike seemed to handle the rough stuff better... mostly because of overall weight being around 50kgs less, and that I have religiously tried to keep weight as far forward and low as possible. Although having a 35kg Backpack on all the time while riding is not the most comfortable thing in the world, it's got major advantages.
While riding long distanace on tar roads, the bottom of the backpack rests with probably 98% of its weight on the rearward part of the seat. The beauty however is, that the weight is redistributable on the fly, and if I miss a big speed bump, ride dirt etc, I simply stand on the footpegs! All was fine and well and we were aboslutely loving it.
The mountain air was fresh at 8am in the morning with the sun still rising up through the mountains! Pablo and I gave each other huge big grins and thumbs up for such a great ride through the mountains! This is what we craved and loved! I sped up and Pablo more or less kept up, and was very much in favour of making the distance.
Then the first REALLY blind zigzag corner came, I slowed down over the crest which is always wise, and despite having slowed down to about 40km/h was seriously worried about the couple behind me when I saw what was before me. If I was further ahead, I would have turned around and flagged them down, but they were only about 400 - 500m behind, and the only hint of the impending danger was a rickety sign... which is what really alerted me and got me zoned in about 200m before the crest... indicating 20km/h.
I just thought, why would there be a lonely little speed warning sign in red on a bashed up old dirt road not even marked on maps or my GPS... and the only one we've seen since leaving the town 30km before. I really hoped that Pablo would throw caution to the wind too... I went through over the small little bridge just past the last corner of the zigzag, past a little farm house and slowed down to a crawl... waiting, listening and then it came.
Skidding, a metal tangling sound of a heavily laden BMW with 2 poeple on the back hitting the embankment. Luckilly there was no cliff here! We didn't notice any serious issues with the bike after that, and after a relatively quick recovery period, we decided to get going. I mean, we have a train to catch! Right!
So, I left slowly heading across a small bridge where I took a quick photo while they were still getting ready to tackle the road again, and after us leaving together, after approximately 2 minutes, I noticed they were again not in sight! I slowed down, eventually turned around and found them about 500m down the road with the bike on it's side, this time, battle scarred and Pablo and Margarita covered in gravel and dust!
Both Pablo and I were quite concerned about his wife! She was not happy to say the least, and although I have never fallen off with a girl on the back... I can only imagine what this was going to cost him. He had the look on his face! We knew, this is the time and place where things could potentially get seriously out of hand... not only becuase the bike this time was visibly damaged, especially the front brake, but his wife was extremely hot in her riding attire, now covered in sand and dirt and to top it all, she hit the road pretty hard when coming off!
There were a couple of dejected looks from Pablo to me, seemlingly asking, what now? I immediately replied, no problems, we'll fix it, and started walking over to my bike for the tools! Margarita certainly kept her compusure, although I was worried about a couple of quick, heated exchanges in German between them. After a few more minutes I jokingly suggested to Pablo that Margarita has successfully passed all the tests now. She was a real Soldier and deserved her place on this adventure!
After some fidling with the lever and the bark buster that was bent into it, I managed to get the front brake fixed... mostly, as it was still biting a little bit into the disc, but so lightly that we we could easily turn it by hand. I also suggested to Pablo that the ABS be turned off, as I've heard some horror stories about ABS on gravel roads, and maybe this had something to do with his crashes, as both of them were clearly braking related.
The Zega Panniers and damaged engine protectors were straightened as much as possible and we were off, very slowly... and also now, without a train to catch! The rest of the ride was quite uneventful, slow and I took some more pictures, sadly, some of which were of the more uninteresting part of the road and missing out on some of the great little Pueblos along the way!
I actually mentioned to Pablo in the morning while we were rushing to get going, that I still wanted to stop and take photos, enjoy the countryside etc. The answer was simply, sorry Alan, but if we want to catch the train... I should have known then that this was a recipe for disaster. Why take a road as interesting as this if you can't enjoy it, not damage your motorcycle and take some nice photos along the way?
Summary for the day: Not good at all, very frustrating for me. I have a damaged motorcycle which is my fault entirely... but it wasn't part of my plans! Coupled with that, my video camera was pummeled into the dirt within 10 minutes of the ride due to impropper fasting of my mount... again my fault... but I know why it happened. When you are with other people, you always feel like you're holding them up if you, for example stop to mount your camera on the bike... which makes you rush it, or not concentrate as much as you would normally! I'm putting that into my bag of experience and never forgetting that one!
Luckilly it's just a camera and not something more critical this time!
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